THOMPSON M1A1

左側面写真
A gas bypass is on in a model after regulation.
I bought this M1A1 model first, manufactured by Hudson, intending to complete the lineup with the other one soon, M1 model by CMC, which both went sale after I had bought a M1921 by MGC.
While all of this was going on, I ended up missing a chance to buy a new model of M1 since its manufacturer, CMC, has gone.
I want to purchase used goods by a product made in Tanaka or auction sometime soon.


This model has a function of hold open.
After you shoot all the carts in the magazine, a projection in the magazine floor (indicated by the arrow 1) pushes down the part 2, which makes a trip rotate to turn down a part A and make a disconnector B rotate (in the direction indicated by the arrow), then sever the contact between the sear lever C and the disconnector to free up the sear and hold the bolt.

My model is not quite competent to this mechanism, because its projection on the side of the magazine is ground down (Or I might have ground it before, by any chance), and yet, I cut off two rolls of the magazine spring to adjust it.


This model, which I had thought the newest because I had bought it when unfired and had not obtained any information since then, has changed its cartridge before I knew it.
This is why it is an old model which uses Piston Fire Carts.
To restore it to life,I decided on a 45CP real-size cartridge, currently marketed and easily-available, so that I can use it in common with my other 45 models, and besides.
(With the thing which moved M1921 in CP first, I use a 45CP rial size cart.)

Original Cart

45CP Rial size cart
As there was little difference in the size, being a type for the use of CAP as well, although the fireing point inside the cart was slightly recessed in the CP, I thought I could adjust it by lengthening the detonator(See the Cartridg table).
However, because detonator became long, a cart hit detonator, and it was not sent into in a chamber.
I changed back detonator into an original unwillingly.
Well, I thought I could neglect such a slight recession in the position of the fireing point considering the model's open bolt mechanism. But the consequence was that the cart collided with the detonator, failing to be properly fed in because of the different shape of its head.
Apparently, it was because of the upward tendency of the direction of the cart, which made me hit upon the idea of reducing the angle of the feeding ramp. Although it would be better to reduce the angle by mounding the side of the magazine which would prevent the cart from going out of alignment when extruded from the magazine, I ground the side of the chamber to reduce the slope for the cart to go through (the area indicated by the arrow, I also put some polish on), judging from my skill which would hardly deal with such processes as smoothening and bonding when applying putty for mounding.
A result. I get possible to send a cart into well when I moved it by hand.
However, poor eject occurs this time.
Looks like the extractor can’t reach the rim as the bolt bumps against the frame in its most advanced position, because of the ignition point backing down, I guess.
It intend to hang on an extracter by power of BLK if it's fireing.But Even manual operation wants an extracter to get caught surely.I reduced the bolt front (a part of a shoulder) and took some progress positions of a bolt (around 2.4mm) before.
The state that a bolt steering wheel did not hit a frame became last.It came to hang on an extracter in this surely and get possible to leave eject.


I give the above-mentioned measures, and It`s fire!!
I was able to catch fire somehow.
However, selector turns at a half-finished position when I do it in fire, and fire of a full magazine is a yet unachieved state.
Because a spring of a selector is broken, it may be hard to be accompanied by pressure of a spring?.
In addition, a screw for injector spring maintenance comes off because Is the reason because a bolt hit it?,The design that a female screw was broken.
If length of a screw was a little longer, I could still use it, but was slightly short.(I am substituting it with a plus screw of stainless steel without a way)
Afterwards. Something fell when I adjusted it.
A bolt handle has been broken.
There is not the trace that was a frame particularly・・・?
I should purchase a part. However, I want to always do something for me who am poor.
Therefore I levelled a break side and I open a screw hool and I connected it with a screw.

It`s break.

I sandwich a spring washer
so that a screw does not loosen by vibration.
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